Young Local Artisans Breathing Fresh Energy into the Skye's Food Scene
Amidst its dramatic, rugged mountain panorama, winding roads and constantly shifting weather, the Isle of Skye has traditionally attracted adventure seekers. Over the last decade, however, the biggest island in the Inner Hebrides has been pulling in visitors for other reasons – its thriving food and drink scene. At the forefront are emerging Sgitheanach (people from Skye) with a international perspective but a commitment to homegrown, environmentally conscious ingredients. It’s also the result of an involved community eager to create rewarding, year-round jobs that encourage young people on the island.
A Dedication to Local Produce
Calum Montgomery is raised on Skye, and he’s fervently focused on showcasing the island’s larder on his menus. “For those traveling to the island I want them to appreciate the scenery, but also the excellence of our ingredients,” he says. “Our mussels, lobster, scallops and crab are unsurpassed.” He honors tradition: “It is profoundly important to me to use the very same produce as my predecessors. My grandfather was a shellfish harvester and we’re enjoying shellfish from the exact same sea lochs, with the identical reverence for ingredients.”
Montgomery’s Skye Tasting menu details the mileage his ingredients has journeyed. Patrons can feast on succulent scallops hand-dived in local waters (zero miles), and creel-caught lobster from a nearby town (12 miles) with greens, gathered seasonings and culinary blooms from the kitchen garden and beach (zero miles). This link to local bounty and producers is essential. “Recently I accompanied a junior cook out with a scallop diver so he could learn what they do. We opened scallops freshly harvested and ate them raw with a squeeze of lemon. ‘I've never tasted a better scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. This is exactly what we want to bring to the restaurant.”
Gastronomic Pioneers
Traveling in a southerly direction, in the shadow of the imposing Cuillin mountains, a further gastronomic advocate for Skye, an innovative restaurateur, runs a well-loved café. Recently Coghill promoted the nation's food at a prestigious international food event, serving lobster rolls with whisky butter, and traditional Scottish fusion. She first started her café in another location. Returning home to Skye over the past period, a series of pop-ups proved there was a demand here too.
While enjoying a unique beverage and exquisite citrus-marinated fish, the chef explains: “I’m really proud that I established elsewhere, but I couldn’t do what I can do here. Getting local goods was a significant effort, but here the scallops come straight from the sea to my kitchen. My local fisherman only speaks to me in the traditional tongue.” Her passion for Skye’s offerings, locals and environment is apparent across her bright, innovative dishes, all infused with homegrown elements, with a hint of traditional heritage. “My connection to Gaelic culture and language is so important,” she says. Visitors can use informative placemats on the tables to discover a few words while they eat.
A lot of us had jobs off the island. We witnessed the ingredients turn up a long way from where it was harvested, and it’s nowhere near the same quality
Innovation and Tradition
Long-running food destinations are constantly innovating. A luxury lodge managed by a local family in her traditional property has long been a gastronomic attraction. The proprietor's parent writes celebrated books on traditional recipes.
The culinary team persistently creates, with a dynamic new generation headed by an talented kitchen leader. When they’re not in the kitchen the chefs grow herbs and spices in the hotel greenhouse, and gather for edible weeds in the gardens and sea herbs like sea aster and shoreline herbs from the water's edge of a nearby loch. In the fall they track deer trails to find fungi in the woodland.
Visitors can sample Skye scallops, pak choi and nuts in a flavorful stock; premium white fish with Scottish asparagus, and house-smoked lobster. The hotel’s activity leader takes guests out for experiences including wild food gathering and catch-and-release trips. “Guests are very interested for hands-on opportunities from our guests,” says the establishment's owner. “People want to come and really get to know the island and the terrain.”
Economic Impact
The whisky industry is also contributing to keep the younger generation on Skye, in careers that continue outside the summer period. An operations manager at a island whisky producer shares: “Seafood farming was a significant local employer in the past, but now most of the jobs are automated. House prices have risen so much it’s more difficult for the youth to stay. The spirits sector has become a really important employer.”
“Opportunities in distilling, training provided” was the notice that a then 21-year-old island resident saw in her community newspaper, leading to a position at the whisky producer. “I just took a punt,” she says, “It was surprising I’d get a role in manufacturing, but it was a personal goal.” The distiller had an curiosity about whisky, but no formal training. “To be able to train onsite and take online courses was transformative.” Now she is a key team member, guiding new distillers, and has developed her own whisky using a unique grain, which is developing in oak at the time of writing. In other distilleries, that’s an recognition usually given to retiring distillers. The visitor centre and cafe employ many people from around the local peninsula. “We meld into the community because we brought the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital